August 20

We had a good time in Etna/Scott's Valley. The longer we stayed, the more relaxed we got. Riding bikes to the local market. Eating Popsicles. Shady trees and hot asphalt. Like summers as a kid. The local b&b has a hostel set up next door called The Hiker Hut. A little red building with everything a hiker could need inside. The owners, Dave and Vibeke were great people and, like most places that cater to hikers, it seemed more like a trail angel, than a hostel. Dave hanging out and chatting casually. Vibeke bringing the Schwan's guy over and asking if we wanted anything. We definately stayed longer than planned, but were so glad we did. Oh yeah, and the local grocery store was giving out free sundaes with the works--whipped cream, sprinkles, and a cherry on top! Also went to the brewery and Bob's for breakfast with a bunch of hikers. There were so many hikers at the hostel I can't even name all of them. When we finally left, we got a ride with a couple that wa headed to the local, beautiful blue swimming hole (they showed us). They were driving his dad's awesome old camper. Oven door swinging open. Cupboard door swinging on its hinges. Floral print wallpaper. Chugging up the mountain to the trailhead. Made it a couple of miles in that night. Had a slow day yesterday. Starting to get sick? Seems like there's a bug going around trail. Or maybe it's wildfire smoke. A few people said that we had just missed a couple section hiking with a herd of goats with dog backpacks on. Hoping to catch up with them and see for ourselves! Got goi fairly early today, smoke filling the air in the AM, and made our way to Seiad Valley and the fire closure for the Goff fire. Hiked along the road to Seiad with a few hikers-Diesel, Chocolate Chipmunk, and Indiana Toad. Picking berries the whole way. So enjoyed cold drinks and Ben & Jerry's when we got there. Caught up with some people-Veggie, Inspector Gadget, Hop-a-Long, Trooper, Extra Credit, and Cactus. A few hiked the road walk, everyone else hitched up. We were debating whether to hitch or walk when a man pulled up in an SUV saying that he'd gone home to get a bigger car to pick up some other hikers, but they were gone. 4 of us took the ride. His name was Jimmy, his wife worked at the Seiad store. Had grown up in Seiad, lived in Skykomish for a while and moved back. At the top, we all hung out and cooked dinner together. Hiked a few last minutes into the setting sun, climbing higher until we got a full view of the fire burning on the hillside two ridges over. We could even see the helicopters dropping water on it. We cowboy camped on a ridge. Burning eyes. Burning lips. Headache. Oregon border tomorrow, if all goes well!!! 19 trail miles, 5 miles as the crow flies. That means we can see it on the other side of the ridge. Woohoo!

Woke early enough today, but the miles dragged. Thankful for overcast weather, sprinkled a little bit, but when the winds changed direction, we could smell the smoke of the Goff fire like it were right next to us. Lots of breaks today. The end of the day brought a huge climb that wasn't on the elevation profile. A surprise, but we made our best time on this last little stretch. The views tonight were spectacular. Some of the most magical yet, with two rock formations that looked like a bear and an eagle. I could imagine this being a sacred site of Native Americans. Didn't get the miles in today that we wanted--4 or 5 miles short. Early morning tomorrow. Setting a goal to get to the road by 8 or 9 am.

It was nice to sleep in. Only needed to make 25 or so, which in today's terrain was pretty easy. Hiked with a couple of people today, Cheshire Cat and Scooter. The views toward the end of the day were really nice with awesome red rock and wildflowers everywhere. We pushed into the night a little (which was part of our plan with sleeping in and all). It seemed to go much slower this time and the trail went into some thick forest. We saw a pair of eyes slink around and when we got to where it had gone. We stopped and looked around. Nothing. Looked up. "What is that!?!" It looked like a monkey clinging to the tree. It turned out - I think - to be a kitten. In the middle of the mountains? I don't know. Then we started noticing big, huge toads everywhere. Crossing us on the trail. Clambering over bushes. Splashing in the water. Definately using a tent tonight! Don't want toads climbing on our faces. Now we're camped at the junction of the PCT and Bloody Run Trail. Creepy! The sign is dripping with sap that looks like blood. The spot's nice though. Wishing Etna was tomorrow, but another 25 mile day and we'll be close.

32 mile day today!!! We overshot our destination by two miles and ended up on a beautiful saddle with a view of the stars. Sleeping in tomorrow.

Hot today, 10 degrees cooler than yesterday after all. The hike today was really nice and pleasant. Mesquite covered hills, sunshine, shady trees, an huge views of Castle Crags as our trail worked its way around them. Saw only two people on trail today. Stopped short 'cause we felt like it. Not too tired, but just want to go to sleep early and wake up early. Waking up at 4 am. Goodnight all.

Town update. After this last town, we're really starting to realize how important these town friendships are. When all this is said and done, when we're back at home having trail withdrawals, sitting in the couch, not doing the things we dreamed we would do when we got back, who else will understand but these people? No one else even understands the notion to come out here but these awesome people. I want to leave this experience knowing that I have friends to contact when I'm all over the world. That I can just call them up and they will be the free-spirited, anything-is-possible kind of people that we've all become out here. There is a kinship, there is a bond in every acquaintance out here. This becomes more and more true as the trip carries on and people drop out. Injuries, homesickness, wanting to do other things, money, jobs. The people that stick around become that much more meaningful to our town experiences and our lives. It was hot today and we ended up spending most of the day in front of Amarratti's Market in Castella. A lot of people came through today. One of the guys was talking about how he missed other hikers when he was out on the trail alone. It's true and when we get back we'll feel it even more. We'll miss real interaction, real conversation. Openness and excitement for life. Anything is possible. And the people who feel the same. It didn't cool off until late today. Maybe 7pm. It was so tempting to go back into town, but we finally got a ride out with Tom. He had driven up to the gas station and smiled politely, a grin with two missing front teeth, mismatched clothes, worn down shoes, and an old truck. When we asked if he was heading North and if he'd be able to drive us to the trail at the next exit, he didn't even hesitate. Of course he'll take us, but so sorry for the layer of dirt in the back. He wa from Modesto, headed for the Tri-Cities in Washington. When we got out and said our thank yous, he was thee first person we felt expected no tip, no monetary settlement. He asked if he could pray for us and we listened intently as he said a lovely prayer for our journey and we wished him all the best on his. The best meetings come in unexpected packages, no? The world is an awesome place. We're back on trail, perched half a mile up the mountain and can hear the freeway noise. Tomorrow, we'll be in the quiet of nature, but tonight I'm enjoying the simple sound of people, making their way back and forth. Exactly 100 miles to Etna, then Seiad Valley (home of the pancake challenge), and then Ashland, Oregon!!! Looking at the map of waypoints, it's getting exciting. We're getting somewhere now.

We made it to Dunsmuir last night around 5:30 pm. The hike yesterday was much improved. The trail ascending to the tops of mountains and ridges, sunlight flooding through and winding through pockets of cool shade on another hot day. Well over 100 degrees again. We noticed on the map that the trail does this 4 mile or more loop-d-loop along the side of a canyon and loops back around on itself slightly lower than where it started. The gap between the entrance and exit, about 1/2 mile long. We thought it must either be a crazy cliff that the trail diverts around or mindless trail work and we could get through. We have been such purists throughout the entire trip, but somehow I felt empowered by this notion of navigating the map. When we got there, sure enough, there was a well-travelled trail heading across the ridge on the right. One of the only non-steep spots to cross. Like a magical trap-door in the trail, I burst through the bushes and headed down easily. Standing on the ridge, I could see the road that would join the trail up with the PCT. Brett started calling my name, I thought he had followed me down, but he was having second thoughts. I headed back up and when I got to the top, I crouched down to read the faint sharpie mark that someone had tried to wash off of the sign--"OLD PCT -->" It's totally not cheating if it's the old PCT, right? It's the truer PCT trail, the historical route. Still, we continued on the loop-d-loop and it was long, but it wasn;t so bad because it had amazing, delicious, cold water pouring down the mountainside and it was pretty. The view in this entire area is incredible. Three monumental geologic formation all lined up--Castle Crags, Black Butte, and Mt. Shasta in full HUGE view. When we got down to the road, we walked along it for a while, but when a car came by, we stuck our thumbs out. He stopped to tell us that he had no room room because he had a fishing pole in back, but Brett started telling him, "Oh yeah, there's plenty of room...I'll squeeze right in here." And so, we got a ride. I guess we're getting to be real, hardened hitchhikers now. He turned out to be a really nice guy named Rich. We got dropped off in Dunsmuir. Laundromat out of business. OUT OF BUSINESS. Isn't it a town staple to have a laundromat!?!?! Washers and dryers all lined up in the window and the doors locked. We had no choice but to meander around town wearing our hiker stink like a badge. We walked up to the brewery, people outside, band firing up, and noticed with a sting that people were staring. "They're really gonna have the guts to walk in here? Bums!" We held out breath and started walking toward the door, my mind racing with thoughts of what the workers would say. Their sour faces as we came in looking like that. Before we reached the door, a guy in a logo t-shirt popped out, huge smile on his face, full of greetings. He looked like he wanted to shake our hands and usher us inside as celebrities. With everyone on the outside porch staring, he said loudly, "You guys are awesome! Come in, we have a room inside for your stuff." We put our stuff down, washed up, and settled down at the bar, stunned. He was telling us he was a guide and that the long trip he had done was 30 days. 30 days and only one resupply! Now, I think that's hardcore. Then, the brewer gave us a tour of their 8bbl system. It was a cool little setup and the brewer/owner was an awesome guy as well. We then did our grocery shopping and the cashier priced some stuff way down for us because we were disappointed that they were $5 instead of $1.50. This town is full of nice people! Back to the brewery to meet up with some hikers and when we got ready to leave, one of the bartenders oppered to drve us to the campground. She was really sweet, closed out her shift, adn drove all 4 of us out there in her truck at 11pm. So now, we're at the PCT Hiker campground in Castella. $3/person. Stayed up 'till 2am talking. On the trail, when there are people around, it doesn't matter what time it is. Your friends are here now and you will part ways tomorrow so enjoy it while you can. Gonna try to get out to trail this morning if it's not too hot, but right now we're 3 miles away, clothes not laundered, not showered, electronics not charged, phone calls not made. Burning with the fever to make miles.