We made it to Dunsmuir last night around 5:30 pm. The hike yesterday was much improved. The trail ascending to the tops of mountains and ridges, sunlight flooding through and winding through pockets of cool shade on another hot day. Well over 100 degrees again. We noticed on the map that the trail does this 4 mile or more loop-d-loop along the side of a canyon and loops back around on itself slightly lower than where it started. The gap between the entrance and exit, about 1/2 mile long. We thought it must either be a crazy cliff that the trail diverts around or mindless trail work and we could get through. We have been such purists throughout the entire trip, but somehow I felt empowered by this notion of navigating the map. When we got there, sure enough, there was a well-travelled trail heading across the ridge on the right. One of the only non-steep spots to cross. Like a magical trap-door in the trail, I burst through the bushes and headed down easily. Standing on the ridge, I could see the road that would join the trail up with the PCT. Brett started calling my name, I thought he had followed me down, but he was having second thoughts. I headed back up and when I got to the top, I crouched down to read the faint sharpie mark that someone had tried to wash off of the sign--"OLD PCT -->" It's totally not cheating if it's the old PCT, right? It's the truer PCT trail, the historical route. Still, we continued on the loop-d-loop and it was long, but it wasn;t so bad because it had amazing, delicious, cold water pouring down the mountainside and it was pretty. The view in this entire area is incredible. Three monumental geologic formation all lined up--Castle Crags, Black Butte, and Mt. Shasta in full HUGE view. When we got down to the road, we walked along it for a while, but when a car came by, we stuck our thumbs out. He stopped to tell us that he had no room room because he had a fishing pole in back, but Brett started telling him, "Oh yeah, there's plenty of room...I'll squeeze right in here." And so, we got a ride. I guess we're getting to be real, hardened hitchhikers now. He turned out to be a really nice guy named Rich. We got dropped off in Dunsmuir. Laundromat out of business. OUT OF BUSINESS. Isn't it a town staple to have a laundromat!?!?! Washers and dryers all lined up in the window and the doors locked. We had no choice but to meander around town wearing our hiker stink like a badge. We walked up to the brewery, people outside, band firing up, and noticed with a sting that people were staring. "They're really gonna have the guts to walk in here? Bums!" We held out breath and started walking toward the door, my mind racing with thoughts of what the workers would say. Their sour faces as we came in looking like that. Before we reached the door, a guy in a logo t-shirt popped out, huge smile on his face, full of greetings. He looked like he wanted to shake our hands and usher us inside as celebrities. With everyone on the outside porch staring, he said loudly, "You guys are awesome! Come in, we have a room inside for your stuff." We put our stuff down, washed up, and settled down at the bar, stunned. He was telling us he was a guide and that the long trip he had done was 30 days. 30 days and only one resupply! Now, I think that's hardcore. Then, the brewer gave us a tour of their 8bbl system. It was a cool little setup and the brewer/owner was an awesome guy as well. We then did our grocery shopping and the cashier priced some stuff way down for us because we were disappointed that they were $5 instead of $1.50. This town is full of nice people! Back to the brewery to meet up with some hikers and when we got ready to leave, one of the bartenders oppered to drve us to the campground. She was really sweet, closed out her shift, adn drove all 4 of us out there in her truck at 11pm. So now, we're at the PCT Hiker campground in Castella. $3/person. Stayed up 'till 2am talking. On the trail, when there are people around, it doesn't matter what time it is. Your friends are here now and you will part ways tomorrow so enjoy it while you can. Gonna try to get out to trail this morning if it's not too hot, but right now we're 3 miles away, clothes not laundered, not showered, electronics not charged, phone calls not made. Burning with the fever to make miles.