August 24

We are now camped overlooking a beautiful view of California from O-R-E-G-O-N! The last few days have brought so many thoughts about how we've come all this way. Everything we've been through and seen and felt. The times we thought we'd rather be at home doing other things. The times we thought about quitting. How crazy this ride has been and how very, very glad we are that it's not over yet. Two more states to go and plenty more adventure to come. We woke up slowly this morning. Hitting the snooze over and over again. Eatin breakfast and rolling back over to sleep. By the time we did get going, people from a couple of miles back were catching up and saying good mornings. The miles came really easily even though the terrain wasn't all that easy. Our bodies must be excited for Oregon too. Despite all of my thoughts the last few days, today my mind was blank. Surreal. It has felt like this day would never come and I didn't want to get my hopes up yet. Robo Knee said it best when he explained his similar feeling as a demonstration of the patience he's learned out here. We never celebrate the top of a climb before we get to it, right? We dragged the day out. Taking breaks to chat with fellow hikers, snack, nap. When we got to the border, it was a blur of high fives, hugs, photos, Coo-Hees, and hollering. We hiked up the hill to find the spot we're camped in now, feeling out this new Oregon thing. Does it feel different? I don't know yet. We'll see when we get to Ashland!

August 20

We had a good time in Etna/Scott's Valley. The longer we stayed, the more relaxed we got. Riding bikes to the local market. Eating Popsicles. Shady trees and hot asphalt. Like summers as a kid. The local b&b has a hostel set up next door called The Hiker Hut. A little red building with everything a hiker could need inside. The owners, Dave and Vibeke were great people and, like most places that cater to hikers, it seemed more like a trail angel, than a hostel. Dave hanging out and chatting casually. Vibeke bringing the Schwan's guy over and asking if we wanted anything. We definately stayed longer than planned, but were so glad we did. Oh yeah, and the local grocery store was giving out free sundaes with the works--whipped cream, sprinkles, and a cherry on top! Also went to the brewery and Bob's for breakfast with a bunch of hikers. There were so many hikers at the hostel I can't even name all of them. When we finally left, we got a ride with a couple that wa headed to the local, beautiful blue swimming hole (they showed us). They were driving his dad's awesome old camper. Oven door swinging open. Cupboard door swinging on its hinges. Floral print wallpaper. Chugging up the mountain to the trailhead. Made it a couple of miles in that night. Had a slow day yesterday. Starting to get sick? Seems like there's a bug going around trail. Or maybe it's wildfire smoke. A few people said that we had just missed a couple section hiking with a herd of goats with dog backpacks on. Hoping to catch up with them and see for ourselves! Got goi fairly early today, smoke filling the air in the AM, and made our way to Seiad Valley and the fire closure for the Goff fire. Hiked along the road to Seiad with a few hikers-Diesel, Chocolate Chipmunk, and Indiana Toad. Picking berries the whole way. So enjoyed cold drinks and Ben & Jerry's when we got there. Caught up with some people-Veggie, Inspector Gadget, Hop-a-Long, Trooper, Extra Credit, and Cactus. A few hiked the road walk, everyone else hitched up. We were debating whether to hitch or walk when a man pulled up in an SUV saying that he'd gone home to get a bigger car to pick up some other hikers, but they were gone. 4 of us took the ride. His name was Jimmy, his wife worked at the Seiad store. Had grown up in Seiad, lived in Skykomish for a while and moved back. At the top, we all hung out and cooked dinner together. Hiked a few last minutes into the setting sun, climbing higher until we got a full view of the fire burning on the hillside two ridges over. We could even see the helicopters dropping water on it. We cowboy camped on a ridge. Burning eyes. Burning lips. Headache. Oregon border tomorrow, if all goes well!!! 19 trail miles, 5 miles as the crow flies. That means we can see it on the other side of the ridge. Woohoo!

Woke early enough today, but the miles dragged. Thankful for overcast weather, sprinkled a little bit, but when the winds changed direction, we could smell the smoke of the Goff fire like it were right next to us. Lots of breaks today. The end of the day brought a huge climb that wasn't on the elevation profile. A surprise, but we made our best time on this last little stretch. The views tonight were spectacular. Some of the most magical yet, with two rock formations that looked like a bear and an eagle. I could imagine this being a sacred site of Native Americans. Didn't get the miles in today that we wanted--4 or 5 miles short. Early morning tomorrow. Setting a goal to get to the road by 8 or 9 am.

It was nice to sleep in. Only needed to make 25 or so, which in today's terrain was pretty easy. Hiked with a couple of people today, Cheshire Cat and Scooter. The views toward the end of the day were really nice with awesome red rock and wildflowers everywhere. We pushed into the night a little (which was part of our plan with sleeping in and all). It seemed to go much slower this time and the trail went into some thick forest. We saw a pair of eyes slink around and when we got to where it had gone. We stopped and looked around. Nothing. Looked up. "What is that!?!" It looked like a monkey clinging to the tree. It turned out - I think - to be a kitten. In the middle of the mountains? I don't know. Then we started noticing big, huge toads everywhere. Crossing us on the trail. Clambering over bushes. Splashing in the water. Definately using a tent tonight! Don't want toads climbing on our faces. Now we're camped at the junction of the PCT and Bloody Run Trail. Creepy! The sign is dripping with sap that looks like blood. The spot's nice though. Wishing Etna was tomorrow, but another 25 mile day and we'll be close.

32 mile day today!!! We overshot our destination by two miles and ended up on a beautiful saddle with a view of the stars. Sleeping in tomorrow.

Hot today, 10 degrees cooler than yesterday after all. The hike today was really nice and pleasant. Mesquite covered hills, sunshine, shady trees, an huge views of Castle Crags as our trail worked its way around them. Saw only two people on trail today. Stopped short 'cause we felt like it. Not too tired, but just want to go to sleep early and wake up early. Waking up at 4 am. Goodnight all.

Town update. After this last town, we're really starting to realize how important these town friendships are. When all this is said and done, when we're back at home having trail withdrawals, sitting in the couch, not doing the things we dreamed we would do when we got back, who else will understand but these people? No one else even understands the notion to come out here but these awesome people. I want to leave this experience knowing that I have friends to contact when I'm all over the world. That I can just call them up and they will be the free-spirited, anything-is-possible kind of people that we've all become out here. There is a kinship, there is a bond in every acquaintance out here. This becomes more and more true as the trip carries on and people drop out. Injuries, homesickness, wanting to do other things, money, jobs. The people that stick around become that much more meaningful to our town experiences and our lives. It was hot today and we ended up spending most of the day in front of Amarratti's Market in Castella. A lot of people came through today. One of the guys was talking about how he missed other hikers when he was out on the trail alone. It's true and when we get back we'll feel it even more. We'll miss real interaction, real conversation. Openness and excitement for life. Anything is possible. And the people who feel the same. It didn't cool off until late today. Maybe 7pm. It was so tempting to go back into town, but we finally got a ride out with Tom. He had driven up to the gas station and smiled politely, a grin with two missing front teeth, mismatched clothes, worn down shoes, and an old truck. When we asked if he was heading North and if he'd be able to drive us to the trail at the next exit, he didn't even hesitate. Of course he'll take us, but so sorry for the layer of dirt in the back. He wa from Modesto, headed for the Tri-Cities in Washington. When we got out and said our thank yous, he was thee first person we felt expected no tip, no monetary settlement. He asked if he could pray for us and we listened intently as he said a lovely prayer for our journey and we wished him all the best on his. The best meetings come in unexpected packages, no? The world is an awesome place. We're back on trail, perched half a mile up the mountain and can hear the freeway noise. Tomorrow, we'll be in the quiet of nature, but tonight I'm enjoying the simple sound of people, making their way back and forth. Exactly 100 miles to Etna, then Seiad Valley (home of the pancake challenge), and then Ashland, Oregon!!! Looking at the map of waypoints, it's getting exciting. We're getting somewhere now.

We made it to Dunsmuir last night around 5:30 pm. The hike yesterday was much improved. The trail ascending to the tops of mountains and ridges, sunlight flooding through and winding through pockets of cool shade on another hot day. Well over 100 degrees again. We noticed on the map that the trail does this 4 mile or more loop-d-loop along the side of a canyon and loops back around on itself slightly lower than where it started. The gap between the entrance and exit, about 1/2 mile long. We thought it must either be a crazy cliff that the trail diverts around or mindless trail work and we could get through. We have been such purists throughout the entire trip, but somehow I felt empowered by this notion of navigating the map. When we got there, sure enough, there was a well-travelled trail heading across the ridge on the right. One of the only non-steep spots to cross. Like a magical trap-door in the trail, I burst through the bushes and headed down easily. Standing on the ridge, I could see the road that would join the trail up with the PCT. Brett started calling my name, I thought he had followed me down, but he was having second thoughts. I headed back up and when I got to the top, I crouched down to read the faint sharpie mark that someone had tried to wash off of the sign--"OLD PCT -->" It's totally not cheating if it's the old PCT, right? It's the truer PCT trail, the historical route. Still, we continued on the loop-d-loop and it was long, but it wasn;t so bad because it had amazing, delicious, cold water pouring down the mountainside and it was pretty. The view in this entire area is incredible. Three monumental geologic formation all lined up--Castle Crags, Black Butte, and Mt. Shasta in full HUGE view. When we got down to the road, we walked along it for a while, but when a car came by, we stuck our thumbs out. He stopped to tell us that he had no room room because he had a fishing pole in back, but Brett started telling him, "Oh yeah, there's plenty of room...I'll squeeze right in here." And so, we got a ride. I guess we're getting to be real, hardened hitchhikers now. He turned out to be a really nice guy named Rich. We got dropped off in Dunsmuir. Laundromat out of business. OUT OF BUSINESS. Isn't it a town staple to have a laundromat!?!?! Washers and dryers all lined up in the window and the doors locked. We had no choice but to meander around town wearing our hiker stink like a badge. We walked up to the brewery, people outside, band firing up, and noticed with a sting that people were staring. "They're really gonna have the guts to walk in here? Bums!" We held out breath and started walking toward the door, my mind racing with thoughts of what the workers would say. Their sour faces as we came in looking like that. Before we reached the door, a guy in a logo t-shirt popped out, huge smile on his face, full of greetings. He looked like he wanted to shake our hands and usher us inside as celebrities. With everyone on the outside porch staring, he said loudly, "You guys are awesome! Come in, we have a room inside for your stuff." We put our stuff down, washed up, and settled down at the bar, stunned. He was telling us he was a guide and that the long trip he had done was 30 days. 30 days and only one resupply! Now, I think that's hardcore. Then, the brewer gave us a tour of their 8bbl system. It was a cool little setup and the brewer/owner was an awesome guy as well. We then did our grocery shopping and the cashier priced some stuff way down for us because we were disappointed that they were $5 instead of $1.50. This town is full of nice people! Back to the brewery to meet up with some hikers and when we got ready to leave, one of the bartenders oppered to drve us to the campground. She was really sweet, closed out her shift, adn drove all 4 of us out there in her truck at 11pm. So now, we're at the PCT Hiker campground in Castella. $3/person. Stayed up 'till 2am talking. On the trail, when there are people around, it doesn't matter what time it is. Your friends are here now and you will part ways tomorrow so enjoy it while you can. Gonna try to get out to trail this morning if it's not too hot, but right now we're 3 miles away, clothes not laundered, not showered, electronics not charged, phone calls not made. Burning with the fever to make miles.

They say not to sugar-coat the trail experience. I'll try not to here. Today has not been my favorite section of trail. Aside from environmental factors: mood, energy levels, calorie intake...it wasn't any of that. Today I diecovered that I really don't like "green tunnels." When the trail is covered in foliage and trees and you can barely see sunlight. Since last night, we have been winding in and out of deep gullies. So deep that it becomes dark hours before the sun goes down. I feel happy to see sunlight just beyond, surely it's around the next bend, only to find that the next bend looks just like the last. Climbing higher and higher toward the sun, so close, we're almost there, to find that the mountainside has grown higher and I am no closer to reaching that sunlight. There are sections of trail that appear to be old, old wagon roads. As primitive as widened footpaths along the gully walls. It's almost spooky to me. Poison Oak is everywhere, not just by water. It was 110 degrees today, heatwaves wafting through canyons, amid cooler air. 10pm still hiking, looking for any campsite, washing the poison oak from our bodies in the creek by headlamp. Tired. Now, we're camped in the one possible campsite for miles, a small patch just big enough for our tent right on the edge of the trail.

2 good, good, great things about today?:

1.) Berries!

2.) Cleaning up and napping by a beautiful glacial milk river.

Awesome day climbing along tall ridges covered in Manzanita. Warm sun, cool shade. And a view of Mt. Shasta for the second day in a row, this time huge. We hike along it for most of the day...our view's angle changing. It was really beautiful. The trail was lined with huge volcanic rock formations. Black. Butterflies and deer. We saw a baby rattlesnake. By the end of the day, we had descended into the gully we're in now, but we were able to find a single ridge with a flat on it--a 28 mile day. It was funny because afterwe set up the tent, we discovered that the ridge was serving as the only trail for animals to reach the top of the mountain. Deer kept creeping sneaking by, ducking from our headlamps. I think a bear might have gone by too. Something that sounded like it walked on two legs. Making tons of noise. Smelled like a skunk. So it was either a bear or a skunk ape. Who knows...haha.

Tomorrow, we wake early and head for Dunsmuir before the heat hits and before we run out of food.

Love,
Dana

Just a quick update. We made it through the dreaded Hat Creek Rim and it was kind of nice. Brett was in heaven having scrub bushes back. The storm clouds protected a little which was very appreciated, but it was pretty hot for the second half of it, which we did yesterday. No major rain and it blew over. We took a little side trip in the morning before the rim to talk to the fire department about the fire in Lassen and they told us that this one's a controlled burn and shouldn't affect us. All they wanted to talk about was our trip and how they all want to do it too. They were super cool guys. Another unexpected meeting that takes you by surprise. Then, we went to JJ's Cafe next door and shared a plate which turned out to be huuuuge and we were both stuffed. We also did a mini resupply at the convenience store next door and it turns out that it's under new ownership and the guy loves hikers. He wanted to take our picture for his Wall-O-PCT. Ran all the way to get to trail magic that we'd heard about, but ended up missing it, afterall. All was not lost...just a little while further and we came to the same fire department guys up on the rim. It was cool to come across them again and they showered us with ice cold water and gatorade. True, genuine, unexpected trail magic. This is what makes the trail so incredible, the unexpected meetings, the unexpected kindness. The next day, we had the good fortune to make it in time for a last water cache on this dry stretch and it had a few sodas in it--still COLD. I was so grateful for that cold root beer, I can't even express. I had been craving root beer for days and definitely didn't expect to come across it in the wilderness. We skipped (and ran) merrily all the way to Burney Falls State Park. Trying to shave off a whole hour from our hike to get to the store before it closed. We made it with a half an hour to spare and devoured popsicles and a couple of cold beers. Cold has never tasted so good! We hung out with a bunch more hikers we hadn't seen for a while and met a couple of new ones. Then everyone went their separate ways and we got beautifully hot showers at the campground. A good couple of days, a boost to morale. Hopefully we can keep the miles up. We had a wonderful nap at the falls and swimming hole outside of the park today and we saw a lot a lit of different terrain. It's changing to the NorCal/Castle Crags terrain. Looking forward to the towns of Dunsmuir and Mt. Shasta in a couple of days.

It so hard to make time for updates! 3 days later, I'll try to recap...we called the fire department in the morning and he said with confidence that the town of Belden was open, all roads were open to hitch out of, and that the fire near the PCT was put out. We were pretty happy with that answer and were all ready to hike on to Buck's Lake and maybe all the way to Belden when we decided to call the trail angels in Belden, the Braatens. Mrs. Braaten answered and as soon as I even mention fire, town closed, Quincy-Laporte Road, she emphatically said, "Yep. That's right. Hitch out now." They were supposed to evacuate, but were holding up their fort. Highway 70 was being traffic controlled and we wouldn't be able to hitch out. There was no knowing if it would be closed by the time we got there. There was the option of continuing to Buck's Lake, but we had heard that it might be closed. This new info was such a contrast from what the fire department told us, we were taken by surprise. What other options were there? Could we get a few more miles in before bypassing the fire? A forest service truck pulled over and the worker was telling us about other outlet roads we could go out on that would be easier to get a hitch on, but his information didn't match up and just as we were thanking him and saying goodbye, a truck pulled up offering us a ride plus two other hikers that had come down the trail. Of course, we took it and were soon in Quincy, en route to Chester, and safely around the fire. We hung out in Quincy for a while and then took a bus to Chester. On the bus, all I could think about was whether or not we did the right thing. We could have gotten out on a different road. The fire might have been out by the time we got there. Were we doing the right thing in...SKIPPING? And when will we be able to come back to finish this section? Will we get to the monument at Manning Park and suddenly feel like we can't celebrate fully because this section is still lingering unfinished? In the end, I think it was the responsible thing to do. And we'll figure out when is the right time to come back. We didn't spend much time in Chester, but did have some drinks at the bowling alley, caught up with some people we hadn't seen for a while and ate at the Cotton Candy something restaurant that was non-profit for the local church and had bottomless fries. Then off to the trail and 18.5 miles to Drakesbad Guest Ranch. Drakesbad was really cool. Big hot spring pool, endless free showers, they take your laundry and do it for you. All free of charge. Dinner is served family-style to the resort guests and all of the leftovers are given to the hiker trash for $5-$10. And stealth camping right next door that you can waddle over to. Now we're just outside of Hat Creek/Old Station. A storm is rolling in just in time for what is supposed to be of the hottest stretches of trail--the Hat Creek Rim.

Mile 1235

Today is interesting because there is a wildfire near Belden, our next town stop. We are two days out of Sierra City. We got to the Qunicy-Laporte Rd. and found a note on the trail stating that Belden is clised due to the fire, as well as Hwy 70, our route into Belden. We had planned to make a 25 mile day, but spent the last couple of hours of daylight making phone calls, looking at maps, and flagging down cars for information. We have a couple of options, but these could change quickly with a change in wind. We've learned this living in San Diego, for sure. Everything can change in a matter of hours and if we push on, we won't have access to updates. The note said that he road-walked to Quincy (26 miles). Not sure where the others decided to go. We're now camped next to the trail near the road and are planning to call the fire department in the morning. It's funny, because most hikers were only concerned about a reroute around the midpoint marker and that they wouldn't be able to see it.