Mile 1198

After our last post, we hitched out of Tahoe with a nice couple in a nice car. It seemed like our new lifestyle contrasted so strongly with their 

lifestyle that they were extremely interested in our journey and were full of questions. Yes, we do sleep outside in the dirt. Yes, for months at a time. As soon as we got out of the car and said our goodbyes and thank yous, we realized we had left three hats in town-

-two of which were handmade. The other, necessary to protect against the broiling sun. We decided to hitch back as the sun was setting. Anyone who knows hitching knows that this feels like a sin, wasting trail magic by acquiring a ride and then just going back to where we came from. We were lucky and a man coming from the ski lodge nearby picked us up. He was friends with one of the hikers we know, Sprinkles. In town, we found our hats and settled down at one of the last spots at the campground. In the middle of the night, the pitter patter of rain started and by morning, it was a full blown thunderstorm. Maybe we were lucky for forgetting our hats...safely in town during the storm. The weather let up in the afternoon and we hitched out, rather reluctantly, in the overcast weather. We were picked up by a woman, Rebecca, in a VW bus and her two very patient kids in the back seat. Despite our reluctance to leave the comforts of town, it felt good to be back on trail. The post storm sunset was fantastic and we camped overlooking the spectacular Echo Lake. The following days were so beautiful, rolling around in the mountains. The terrain climbs easily up to breezy ridges with wild flowers and wind-shaped trees and then back down to thick forests. We felt a bit more trail serendipity when we met Anne and Bill at Barker Pass trailhead. Meeting them was pretty special. Their lives are so full of adventure, living part time in a houseboat on the Northern California coast and part time in a fully equipped camper. They've completed the Washington section of the PCT together and Bill hiked the Oregon section when he was 19 in the 60s with an iron skillet and a 65 lb pack. They've hiked the Pyrenees mountains, which is something we definitely plan to do someday. We left feeling infected with a fresh sense of adventure as I hope our talk of our journey did the same for them. Back onto the trail and our miles are picking up with more determination than ever. Are we willing to set aside everything we think we'd rather be doing at home to complete this one goal? Yes! Absolutely, it is worth it. So with this new determination, we are striving to hike 25-30 miles a day. We got to the Red Moose Inn yesterday afternoon, not sure what to expect. Is it a trail angel or a business? When we walked up to the front door, the sign outside read, "Open for PCT hikers only." We were immediately handed towels for the shower and shown the laundry. With Margaret insisting with the softspoken sincerity that a mother would have that, no, we don't smell bad. That we should wear our dirt with pride. The place was decorated with letters and postcards from hikers. A framed map of the PCT hanging on the wall. Margaret's handknit scarves hanging on a rack in the mudroom. This was not just a business, this was a home. They allowed us all to camp down by the river in their backyard. Bill made ribs for dinner and Margaret made breakfast for everyone. Bill said that they made the prices as reasonable as they possibly could for the hikers. The best meals on the whole PCT alongside Teri and Joe's pancakes and taco salad and Tom's pancakes. We could tell that they were tired as 26 hikers had just passed through two days before, but they fed everyone with care and grace as if they were cooking for family. Everyone we meet has a profound affect on us, but Bill and Margaret have rearranged their whole business to support us dirty hikers. I don't think any hiker can overlook how difficult this must be, how hard they must work. And this will stick with us for the rest of our lives. It's been a great day here in Sierra City and the Red Moose Inn. Now, we're sitting at the bar, watching the Olympics, eating raspberry sorbet, and drinking $1.50 ales. A thru hiker's life is tough! We will be in Belden soon, awaiting news on a closure of 13 miles of trail due to a small wildfire near the halfway mark. Fingers crossed that it will be put out before we get there so that we don't have to be rerouted around the celebratory midpoint. Miss and love everyone!